Beaches
“Then is that lonely island fair;
And the health-seeker findeth there
The wine of life in its pleasant air.
No greener valleys the sun invite,
On smoother beaches no
sea-birds light,
No blue waves shatter to foam more white!”
— From The Palatine, by John Greenleaf Whittier, 1865
Beachgoing had one of its great Renaissances in Rhode Island. A major aspect of Newport’s gilded-age socializing and recreation was hitting the beach. On the heels of Newport, towns like Watch Hill, Narragansett and Block Island grew into summer destinations where ocean bathing was all the rage.
For changing into bulky suits and rinsing off sand, bathhouses were built in the 1880s at all the popular stretches of sand and surf— including Easton’s Beach in Newport, Narragansett Beach and Block Island’s Crescent Beach. Today, the state and towns of Rhode Island maintain an extensive system of large beach pavilions.
Fred Benson Town Beach is Block Island’s fully equipped bathhouse and pavilion. Once called State Beach, it’s now owned by the town and leased to a management company that has upgraded the facility. “Town Beach” is one of two island beaches staffed with lifeguards. Showers, lockers, and such rental items as chairs, umbrellas and boogie boards are available. Hot food and drinks are sold, and there’s plenty of free parking. Admission is free. Corn Neck Road. š466-7717.
Ballard’s Beach is the other B.I. beach staffed with lifeguards. This deep-sand beach—located on the south side of the Old Harbor breakwater and behind Ballard’s restaurant—is popular because of its many offerings. Drinks are served by beachcombing waitstaff. There’s live music on the patio; and volleyball and other beach recreation are offered daily. Those seeking solitude be warned: this beach can be crowded on hot days. š466-2231.
Black Rock is named after a large dark rock. Hidden under 20 feet of water, it has been the demise of many ships. You’ll want to hike or bike into this area; it’s not accessible by car. There are a couple of beaches at the base of the bluffs. While certainly not the best place for lying on the beach, sandy stretches can be found here. Black Rock is the end point of a few trails through Rodman’s Hollow. Use caution when swimming; the surf can be very rough here.
Charlestown Beach is a sandy, peaceful beach that is popular with fishermen, especially along the jetty at its north end. For beachgoers, the jetty is a challenging walk. The beach is quite large and the waters are ususally tranquil. From here, you can watch boats entering New Harbor and get a look at the former Coast Guard Station (now town-owned). Limited parking is available at the station.
Dorry’s Cove is a black-sand beach. It is small and generally uncrowded, with nice sunset views of Long Island. The waters are usually calm and access is easy, making this a good swimmer’s beach. It is also popular with snorklers, and it’s a great place for picnics.
“Kid Beach” is a well-sheltered beachfront at the south end of Crescent Beach. Here, kids can play in shallow waters, catch small crabs, find mussels, wrestle with seaweed, maybe even find a sand dollars. Adults can wade out for a peaceful swim while the kids play in the sand. This is also the closest beach to town, which may be the primary reason why so many adults bring their little ones here.
Mansion Beach is at the end of a dirt road by the same name. The island’s biggest home once sat here like a jewel on a hill overlooking the beach and nearby Jerry’s Point. Fire destroyed the mansion, but the beach lives up to the name—by being B.I.’s grandest. There is parking, but the spaces fill up on busy weekends.
Scotch Beach is a quarter mile north of Fred Benson Town Beach. The sand is usually deep here, and the bottom—depending on recent weather—is generally devoid of rocks. This is a sandbox for big kids—the domain of the island’s summer workers, but tourists love this stretch, too. Bring a cooler, an umbrella and chairs, and dig in for the day. There is a small parking lot off Corn Neck Road.
Vaill Beach is at the bottom of Snake Hollow. A steep, slippery trail through the hollow is accessible at the first bend in Black Rock Road. Vaill Beach is to the left at the end of the trail, beyond 50 yards of rocky terrain. The surf at Vaill can be heavy, and there are some rocks in the shallows. Depending on winter storms, Vaill in summer can be either rocky or deep in fine sand.
West Beach presents a truly different experience. The beach here is lightly trafficked, has calm surf and offers perhaps the island’s best beach walk. To the south is Beane Point; this area is part of a bird sanctuary (no dogs allowed). To the north, dunes lead to the North Light (watch out for nesting seagulls). There is parking at the end of West Beach Road (past the Transfer Station).